How to Open a Mercedes Hood & What Year CLS 500 to Avoid

Most modern Mercedes-Benz cars open the same basic way: you pull a lever inside the cabin, then release a safety latch at the front of the car. The exact shape of the handle can vary, but the steps are very similar across most models.

Step 1: Park Safely

• Park the car on flat, stable ground.
• Put the transmission in Park (or in gear with the handbrake on if it’s a manual).
• Switch the engine off and remove the key or stop the start/stop button.
• If you just drove, be aware that parts under the hood can be very hot.

Step 2: Find the Interior Hood Release

On most Mercedes, the interior hood release is:

• On the driver’s side, low down.
• Near the kick panel (by your left foot in a left-hand-drive car).
• Sometimes slightly under the dash or side of the dashboard when the door is open.

You’re looking for a small lever or handle with a little icon of a car with its hood open.

1. Sit in the driver’s seat.
2. Look down to the left of the pedals (or to the right if your car is right-hand-drive).
3. Pull the hood release handle firmly once. You should feel the hood pop up slightly.

In some older models you may need to pull twice, but most just need a strong single pull.

Step 3: Release the Safety Catch at the Front

Now go to the front of the car. The hood will be slightly raised, but a safety catch holds it so it doesn’t fly up by accident.

Where to feel:

• Stand in front of the grille.
• Reach your hand under the front edge of the hood.
• Feel around the center or slightly to one side for a small lever or tab.

Depending on your model:

• Some cars have a plastic tab that you pull up or to the side.
• On a few, the star emblem area hides the latch; you lift the tab just behind it.
• Newer cars usually have the latch slightly to the right of center (looking at the car from the front).

1. Slide your fingertips up under the front edge of the hood.
2. Find the small metal or plastic latch.
3. Push or pull the latch as it’s meant to move (usually toward one side).
4. Lift the hood with your other hand as you move the latch.

Once you feel the safety catch let go, the hood will lift easily.

Step 4: Lift and Secure the Hood

Mercedes models use either gas struts or a prop rod to hold the hood up.

If You Have Gas Struts

• Simply raise the hood all the way up.
• The gas struts will hold it in position.
• Make sure it feels secure before you start working under it.

If You Have a Prop Rod

• Lift the hood fully with one hand.
• Look for a metal rod clipped into a holder near the front.
• Unclip the rod and place the end into the marked hole under the hood.
• Gently lower the weight of the hood onto the rod so it’s supported.

Closing the Hood Safely

1. Check that no tools or hands are in the way.
2. If you have a prop rod, lift the hood slightly, remove the rod, clip it back in place.
3. Lower the hood until it is about 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) above the latch.
4. Let it drop from that height or press down firmly with both hands near the front edge (do not slam from way up high).

Always check:

• The hood sits flush with the fenders.
• It does not bounce or move if you gently pull up on the front edge.

If You Can’t Open the Hood

• If the interior handle feels loose or does nothing, the cable may be broken or disconnected.
• If the hood pops inside but the safety latch won’t move, it may be stuck or rusty – a light spray of lubricant on the latch (once you reach it) often helps.
• If you are unsure, ask a mechanic or Mercedes specialist rather than forcing it and bending the hood.

---

What Year Mercedes-Benz CLS 500 to Avoid

The Mercedes-Benz CLS 500 is a stylish four-door coupe that has been around for quite a while now. Because these cars are older and complex, it’s normal to wonder if there are certain years to be careful with.

The important thing to remember is this: age, maintenance, and condition matter more than the badge on the trunk. That said, some years and engine setups are known to be more trouble than others.

Generations and Engines in Simple Terms

The early CLS 500 belongs to the first generation CLS (chassis code C219):

• Built roughly from mid-2000s to around 2010, depending on market.
• Early cars used the M113 5.0L V8 (a very solid, well-liked engine).
• Later cars used the newer M273 5.5L V8 (more power, but also more complex and a bit more trouble-prone).

In some countries the badge changed from CLS 500 to CLS 550 when the engine grew to 5.5L, but the basic car is very similar. In other markets, the CLS 500 name stayed while the engine changed inside.

Years to Be Extra Careful With

Rather than one exact year to stay away from, it is better to think of a riskier window.

In many markets, the more modern M273 V8 arrived around the 2006–2007 period. Early examples of that engine family (in several Mercedes models, not just the CLS) are known for issues such as:

• Timing gear or balance shaft problems in certain engine number ranges.
• Intake manifold and variable intake runner issues.
• Occasional timing-related repairs that can be very expensive.

Because of this, many enthusiasts and independent Mercedes technicians say:

• Be extra cautious with early M273-powered CLS 500 / CLS 550 models, roughly in the 2006–2007 range.
• If you consider one, pay close attention to service records and have an expert check the engine carefully.

That doesn’t mean every single car from those years is bad. It just means the chances of big engine work are higher if the issues haven’t already been fixed.

Early vs Late First-Gen CLS 500

Very simplified:

• Early CLS 500 with M113 5.0 V8
  
  Often seen as more robust in the long run.
  
  Known for:
  • Strong, simple, older-style V8 design.
  • Fewer major design flaws, but still normal wear and tear (oil leaks, gaskets, etc.).
• Later CLS 500 / CLS 550 with M273 5.5 V8
  
  More power and slightly newer tech, but:
  • More known for timing and intake-related issues in early production.
  • Repairs can be very expensive if major work is needed.

If you can choose, many people prefer either:

• A well-kept early M113-powered car, or
• A later, facelifted car where known problems have been addressed or there is very strong service history.

Other Expensive Problem Areas (All Years)

No matter which year you pick, these things are worth watching on any first-gen CLS:

• Airmatic (air suspension):
  
  Fantastic ride when it works, but air struts, valves, and compressors can fail with age.
  
  Repairs here can easily run into the thousands.
• Electronics:
  
  Old luxury cars have many modules and sensors. Window regulators, seat controls, COMAND system, parking sensors and other electronics can misbehave as the car gets older.
• Rust and wear:
  
  In harsh climates, check the underside, wheel arches and door bottoms for corrosion.
• Transmission and fluid:
  
  A 7G-Tronic that has never had its fluid changed can act up with high miles. Regular servicing is far better than “sealed for life.”

So, Which Years Should You Be Wary Of?

A simple way to answer your question:

• Be extra cautious with CLS 500 / CLS 550 models around 2006–2007, especially if they have patchy or unknown service history.
• Avoid any year that shows clear signs of neglect: missing maintenance records, long gaps between services, warning lights, or obvious suspension problems.
• Favour cars where major known issues (engine timing work, air suspension repairs) have already been done with invoices to prove it.

Instead of a single “bad year,” think of it as: be careful with early M273 cars and badly maintained examples from any year.

What to Do Before You Buy Any CLS 500

Whatever the year, a smart approach looks like this:

• Check the VIN and service history.
  
  Look for proof of regular oil changes, transmission service, and any big engine or suspension work.
• Get a pre-purchase inspection from an independent Mercedes specialist.
  
  Ask them to focus on:
  • Engine timing noises and error codes.
  • Airmatic struts, compressor and lines.
  • Transmission shift quality and leaks.
  • Rust, especially underneath.
• Budget for repairs.
  
  Even a “good” CLS 500 is still an older, complex luxury car.
  You should be ready to spend on maintenance every year.

Simple Summary

• Yes, there are riskier years, mainly around the early M273 engine era (roughly 2006–2007).
• A well-maintained CLS 500 from any year is usually a safer choice than a low-mile car with poor records.
• If you want to avoid headaches, focus less on the exact year and more on service history, inspection results, and proof that major issues have been handled.